Lease vs. Buy Calculator

Works out the lease payment from the numbers behind it (price, residual and money factor), then compares what leasing and buying the same car cost you over the lease term, including mileage charges and what you would own at the end.
The car
Lease terms
Lease costs
Mileage
If you buy instead

Leave the value blank to use the lease's residual, , which is the leasing company's own estimate of what the car will be worth.

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Lease

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per month
Depreciation part
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Rent charge part
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Tax part
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Due at signing
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Mileage charges
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Total cost of the lease
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Buy

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per month
Due at signing
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Paid during the lease term
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Car's value at the end
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Loan balance left
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Your equity
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Net cost of buying
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Net cost = everything paid minus the equity you keep.

How the lease payment is built

The Federal Reserve's consumer leasing guide breaks a lease payment into parts. This calculator uses the same structure:

Depreciation
The adjusted capitalized cost (the negotiated price plus any fees added to the lease, minus your down payment and other reductions) minus the residual value, spread over the term. In the Fed's words, "Depreciation = Adjusted capitalized cost - Residual value."
Rent charge
The lease's version of interest. The Fed explains that to get the average monthly rent charge, "the money factor is multiplied by the sum of the adjusted capitalized cost and the residual value."
Tax
The Fed notes that the tax in a lease payment is set by the state or county where the car is registered, and that "in most states, this monthly tax replaces the initial sales tax on the purchase price." Check your state's rule; some tax a lease differently.

Money factor vs. APR. Multiplying a money factor by 2,400 gives a rough APR equivalent, because the rent charge is applied to the cap cost plus the residual, which is about twice the average balance. It is only an approximation. The Fed is blunt that a money factor "is not a lease rate and cannot be converted to a lease rate by moving the decimal point," and that it "typically is not disclosed to you." Ask for it.

Worked example

A car with a $36,000 MSRP, negotiated to $34,000. The 36-month lease has a 58% residual ($20,880.00), a money factor of 0.0025, $2,000 down, a $695 acquisition fee added to the lease, $500 in other fees at signing, a $395 disposition fee, 12,000 miles a year and 6% tax on each payment.

Buying the same car with $2,000 down and a 60-month loan at 6.5% costs $681.68 a month. Over the same 36 months you pay $26,540.65, but you own a car. If it is worth the residual at the end, you still owe $15,302.85 on the loan and have $5,577.15 in equity, so buying costs $20,963.50. In this case leasing comes out $433.54 cheaper.

Small changes flip the answer. Drive 15,000 miles a year instead and the lease adds $2,250.00 in mileage charges, making buying $1,816.46 cheaper. Or if the car holds its value better than the residual and is worth $22,500 after three years, buying wins by $1,186.46.

What this comparison leaves out

Frequently asked questions

Where do I find the money factor and residual?

Ask the dealer for both, along with the capitalized cost. The residual is disclosed in the lease, but the money factor often is not volunteered, so you may need to ask directly.

Can I negotiate a lease?

Yes. The negotiated price (capitalized cost) works the same way as in a purchase: every dollar off lowers the depreciation you pay. The money factor and fees can also be negotiable, and a pre-approval or competing lease quote gives you leverage.

Is a big down payment on a lease a good idea?

It lowers the monthly payment, but it is prepaid depreciation. If the car is stolen or totaled early in the lease, you may not get that money back, so ask how the lease handles it before putting a lot down.

What is the acquisition fee?

A fee charged by the leasing company to set up the lease. It is often added to the capitalized cost, which means you also pay rent charge on it.

Sources

Results are estimates for informational purposes, not financial advice or a lease offer.

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